A French ambassador’s thorny love affair

France’s ambassador to Malaysia, M Marc Abensour, and chef James Won share a passion for durian’s culinary potential. (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)

KUALA LUMPUR: With its thorny exterior, pungent aroma and fiercely divisive reputation, the durian can be an intimidating fruit for the uninitiated.

Often described as an acquired taste, the king of fruits has long puzzled – and occasionally frightened – first-time tasters.

But for M Marc Abensour, France’s ambassador to Malaysia, the durian inspires not apprehension but affection.

It began in 2017 when Abensour was serving as France’s ambassador to Singapore. During a reception for the diplomatic corps at the Istana, he was unexpectedly invited to join a durian tasting session.

That first encounter did not immediately turn him into a fan. Subsequent tastings, however, gradually won him over.

“The second time, I was able to reflect more on the fruit and start to understand its complexities. By the third time, my body and mind were finally aligned, and I was able to enjoy it,” Abensour told FMT Lifestyle with a laugh.

“That’s why I recommend that anyone who wants to try durian should give it at least three chances – and do so in the company of friends or loved ones.”

Abensour hopes durian can become a symbol of deeper culinary and cultural exchange between Malaysia and France. (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)

Today, Abensour counts himself among the fruit’s many devotees. His favourites are those that are creamy, slightly bitter and not overly sweet.

When he was appointed ambassador to Malaysia earlier this year, he knew he wanted to celebrate the country’s rich durian culture by bringing together many of the fruit’s key stakeholders for a dedicated event.

The result was “The Durian: An Embodiment of Power – Cross Cultural French and Malaysian Perspectives”, a conference on June 11 that explored the fruit through the lenses of gastronomy, trade, technology and culture.

The event featured speakers including durian advocate Edison Ang and chef James Won, recipient of France’s Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, who later prepared a five-course durian-infused dinner.

Naturally, the festivities concluded with a tasting session featuring several popular varieties of the king of fruits.

Abensour said he has been fortunate to travel extensively across Malaysia during his first five months as ambassador, giving him the chance to sample durians from different states.

“I can’t remember the name, but I managed to have some really good ones when I was in Penang recently. They were really delicious,” he said.

One experience still on his wishlist is to visit a durian farm and enjoy the fruit at its freshest.

Part of Chef Won’s presentation, quirkily titled ‘Durian, the Galaxy’. (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)

Trying unfamiliar foods has always come naturally to Abensour. As a child, his parents encouraged him to sample a wide variety of dishes, including cheeses from across France.

Those experiences, he said, taught him openness, curiosity, and an appreciation for different cultures – qualities that have served him well throughout his diplomatic career.

Now, Abensour believes the time is ripe – no pun intended – to introduce more French consumers to durian.

He has observed that Malaysia is home to more than 200 durian varieties, while France boasts about 258 varieties of cheese: two foods celebrated for their distinctive flavours and strong aromas.

French gastronomy, he added, places great importance on terroir – the way a product’s taste and character are shaped by its place of origin – as well as preserving culinary heritage. These values closely mirror the cultural significance attached to durian in Malaysia.

“The French share with Malaysians a similar pride in local produce and the know-how that underpins it,” he said.

“This proximity of values constitutes fertile ground for close relations between our two countries and may, in due course, open the way for the durian to find its place at the annual International Agricultural Show in France.”

A tasting session gave participants the opportunity to compare the flavours and textures of different durian varieties. (Terence Toh @ FMT Lifestyle)

For Malaysians interested in exploring French cuisine, Abensour recommends trying Époisses, a cheese famous for its pungent aroma and robust flavour.

“If we can learn one lesson from the durian, it’s that first impressions, clichés, preconceived ideas and appearances never tell the whole story,” he concluded.

“It is by overcoming initial reluctance that the most unexpected horizons open up, and the most unsuspected riches are revealed.”